Tag Archives: Build

Part 2 – Fully Operational Gaming Station Series – The Build

In continuation of my first post in this series, I will be detailing my build process and the various challenges along the way.  Overall, it took me 2 nights for building, 1 night of troubleshooting Windows, and 1 night of minor adjustments.  If my last components (fans and RAM) arrived on the weekend instead of Monday, I would have done it all in one go.  Work gets in the way but it pays the bills!

Day 1 – Case Preparation and Fans

Since it would be troublesome to remove the stock fans after installing components, I decided first to knock out all of the fans including the CPU cooler radiator installation.  The Corsair Vengeance C70 case comes with 3x 120mm stock Corsair fans.  They are nothing special but would have been sufficient if I didn’t buy additional fans.  1 fan was mounted as rear exhaust, and the other two were mounted behind the storage drive bays as intake (pulling air through the bays).

My overall airflow plan was as follows:

  • 1x stock Corsair fan as rear exhaust
  • 2x AF120 Corsair red LED fans as side window intake
  • 2x SP120 Corsair red LED fans as front intake (in front of the drive bays, so pushing air through the bays)
  • Corsair H100i cooler (radiator + 2x stock SP120 fans) on the top as exhaust

First, I had to remove the 2x stock fans behind the drive bays.  Below is a picture of one of the stock fans I removed.

Corsair Stock Fan

Corsair Stock Fan

Second, I had to figure out how to install the 2x SP120 red LED fans onto the front.  I thought I would need to remove the drive bays, but that didn’t seem to be working out.  I then switched to popping off the front panel of the case (no screws, just tabs that needed to be depressed) and then mounting the two fans to the front.  There’s a filter on the front panel, so the intake air should be clean.  I chose SP120 fans at this location because the drive bays provide an obstruction to the air flow.  Higher static pressure fans can push air better through obstructions.  I used the provided case’s long fan screws for mounting.  Both fans connect up to a 4 pin splitter I bought, so they will be controlled by one fan header on the motherboard.  The fans are actually 3 pins, but the 4 pin splitter looked nice.

Corsair SP120 Fans at front of C70 Case

Corsair SP120 Fans at front of C70 Case

Next up were the side window intake fans.  I chose 2x AF120 fans since the air flow would not be obstructed here.  I used the screws that came with the fans this time around.  They are short but do the job.  The 120mm fan screw holes on the window also have fan rubber mounts, which help to limit vibration.  The installation for these fans went fairly quick with no issues.  I used another splitter for those too.

Side Window Fans

Side Window Fans

Last, but certainly not least, was the Corsair H100i CPU cooler.  The cooler requires a bit more effort since you need to assemble the fans onto the radiator first and then mount the radiator into the case.  The cooler came with decent instructions.  I decided to use the stock SP120s that came with the cooler.  The fans connect up to a 4-pin splitter that goes into the Corsair CPU cooler hub.  I could have connected the fans to a motherboard fan header, but then the Corsair Link software would not be able to control the fan speeds.  Here’s a picture with the fans installed onto the radiator.

Corsair H100i CPU Cooler

Corsair H100i CPU Cooler – Fans Installed

Mounting the radiator took some time.  Another set of hands to line up the holes and keep the radiator from moving would have helped!  There are a total of 8 mounting screws.  The top of my C70 case already had rubber mounts for the holes I was planning to use.  Once I got everything lined up and screwed in, here’s the end result of my labor!

CPU Cooler Mounted

CPU Cooler Mounted

I thought for a while if I was mounting this cooler in the correct orientation.  I could have flipped it 180 degrees with the tubing towards the back.  The main problem I foresaw at the time would be that I would need to twist the tubing to get the Corsair logo to face the correct orientation.  These small decisions eventually have consequences down the road.  This one was minor, but I will detail it when I run into it!  That was all of my work for Day 1.  It was a Monday, so I was ready to go to sleep.

Day 2 – Finishing the Build

With the case and fans ready to go, I was ready to move onto the motherboard.  I watched a few build videos, and the majority of them install the CPU and then the RAM before placing the motherboard into the case.  The CPU installation was the scariest part of the build!  You are holding a $360 chip!  My MSI z170 Gaming M5 motherboard had standard CPU installation instructions.  Turn back the lever, remove the CPU cover on the mobo, place the CPU onto the socket, close the bracket, and then bring back the lever to secure it into place.

MSI z170 Gaming M5 Motherboard

MSI z170 Gaming M5 Motherboard – CPU Cover On

Seating the CPU was rather scary.  I read warnings about not touching the bottom of the CPU (don’t want to mess up the pins) and about not touching the top in order to reduce the amount of dirt that gets on the CPU for cooler installation later on.  You have to hold the CPU on its sides and then line up the CPU with the socket (there’s an arrow on the bottom left corner that tells you if you have the correct orientation).  The first time around, I didn’t seat it correctly.  It twisted a little bit and was not lined up correctly at all!  I had to very carefully grab the CPU on its sides, lift it up, and gently seat it correctly.  I got it in on the 2nd try.  I gently pushed horizontally on the chip to make sure it was indeed in the socket this time.  The second scare with the CPU installation was locking it into place.  I felt like I was going to break it with how much force is required to bring the lever down into the locked position!  The Corsair RAM was easily installed.  Just pull the tabs, insert the RAM, and lock it in (should happen automatically).  One thing that I had to consult the motherboard manual on was which slots to use for the RAM.  I only had 2 modules, so I had to make sure I was taking advantage of the dual channel memory.  DIMM slots 2 and 4 were noted for 2 modules.  Below is the final picture of the motherboard with CPU and RAM installed.

Motherboard with CPU and RAM

Motherboard with CPU and RAM

Before I placed the motherboard into my case, I had to install the I/O shield.  I read that the shields were notorious for cutting fingers.  I managed to avoid that, but I did have trouble getting it perfectly into place.  In the end, I think it was OK and all ports are accessible, but maybe it could have been a little better.

I/O Shield In

I/O Shield In

Placing the motherboard into the case was another task where an additional set of hands would have helped tremendously.  The key to placing the motherboard is having all of the motherboard standoffs lined up and have the I/O ports in the shield.  The I/O ports never seemed to line up perfectly, and it may have been an issue with the shield.  I can still access all ports and connect to them, but they don’t seem to stick out like I expect they would.  I did manage to get all motherboard standoffs lined up.  My case has one center standoff that just sticks through the board (no screw), which does help with making sure you have it in correctly.  My case had motherboard screws, so I used those to secure it.

Motherboard inside!

Motherboard inside!

In order to avoid getting any dirt on my CPU, I decided now was the time to mount the cooler onto the CPU.  The H100i had decent instructions.  I won’t go into details.  Basically, you have 4 standoff screws that go near the 4 corners, the mount bracket sits on those screws, and the backplate (other side of the case) has to line up with the standoffs.  It was not too hard to figure it all out, but this is one task you shouldn’t consider as minor.  A bad cooler mount installation could mean inefficient cooling.  Up until this point, I had kept the protective cover of the cooler mount.  There’s thermal paste pre-applied on the mount, so no need to apply extra.  I made sure everything lined up correctly and all screws were firmly into place.

Cooler Mounted onto CPU

Cooler Mounted onto CPU

CPU Back Plate

CPU Back Plate

As seen in the cooler mounted picture, I did go ahead and connect the front I/O connectors and cooler connections.  Front I/O (Power Switch, Reset Switch, Power LEDs, HD LEDs, Audio, and USB 3.0 header) was not complicated but some of the jumpers were not labeled with positive or negative.  The first time around, I did not connect the HD LED and Reset Switch jumpers correctly!  Another minor issue but fortunately an easy fix.  The Corsair H100i connections were for the fans to the hub, pump to fan header (chose the CPU header), and hub to USB 2.0 header for Corsair Link integration.

Next up was the video card!  Fairly easy.  I initially did not remove the correct backplate output cover, but that was fixed quickly (silly mistake).  Placing the EVGA GTX 970 onto the PCIE slot was not a problem.  I did notice the card covers up the chipset heatsink with the dragon, oh well!

Video Card In!

Video Card In!

Another easy item to install was the ASUS optical DVD drive.  I did run into one problem though.  The drive would not fit in the first expansion bay at the top because it was long enough where it would hit the CPU cooler tubing.  My decision for the cooler orientation did have this one consequence.  Fortunately, I just moved the optical drive down one bay with no issues.  For this case, the drive was a screwless installation since all you do is slide it from the front, and the clips in the bay snap into place to secure it.

With the main components inside the case, it was time for the EVGA power supply!  The power supply was mounted at the bottom with the fan facing down (there’s a filter on the bottom, so clean air again).  It was screwed on the back.  There were more holes than actual screw holes, which threw me off initially.  My power supply has an ECO mode available, where it will not use the fan unless it really is needed.  The switch is strangely on the inside, so I flipped it on before I forgot about it.  Connecting the power cables was more time consuming than anticipated.  I had to feed the cables through the grommets and have them come out at appropriate locations to minimize excess cabling and have a cleaner look.  Some of the power cable connections (seen below) are segmented while others are not.  The CPU cable confused me for quite a while but I eventually figured out which side goes to the supply and which side goes to the CPU power connection on the board.  I had to use two SATA power cables (3 connectors each) since I had to power 4 items:  The CPU cooler hub, the ASUS DVD drive, old HDD, and old SSD.  My video card supported a 6+8 pin power connector, so I went with that.

PSU Close-Up Inside Case

PSU Close-Up Inside Case

PC Progress - No Storage Drives

PC Progress – No Storage Drives

Next up were the storage drives.  I decided to move my old drives, a HDD and SSD (with Windows), to my new computer.  I had to open up my old computer and grab the drives out!  I forgot how messy my old HP computer was on the inside.  I replaced the power supply when I added an ATI (AMD) Sapphire Radeon HD 5770 video card, but it was not modular.  I have included a few pictures of my old computer to show how must of a mess the inside was.

Removing Drives from Old Computer

Removing Drives from Old Computer

After I extracted the drives, my new case made installation fairly easy.  For the old HDDs, you simply slide out a hard drive tray, flex the tray (with screws already embedded) into the HDD, and then slide the tray back into the drive bay.  For the SSD, I had to screw it into a tray and then slide it back into the bay.

SSD Mounted onto Tray

SSD Mounted onto Tray

What I found troublesome about the storage drive installation was connecting the power and SATA cables.  There’s not a lot of room on the other side of the case at the front for any excess cables.  The side panel pops out in the middle, but near the drive bay, it tapers.  I was running into a lot of vibration problems after I turned on my computer.  The SATA cables and power cables were vibrating and transmitting it into the side panel, causing a rattling sound.  I had to redo the wiring to stop the vibration from being transmitted into the case.  In regards to the SATA cables, my motherboard had 4 that came with it, so I had more than enough.  I again consulted my manual to see which port was SATA 1.  I wanted my SSD boot drive to be on SATA port 1, but I somehow managed to get ports 1 and 2 switched around (maybe lost track of the cables).  Another minor issue easily fixed later on though.

With everything hooked up, I tried to work on cable management.  My case has 3 wire brackets on the non-window side that help guide wires along the grommets.  The only wires that were significantly off the tracks were the Corsair Link USB 2.0 header, CPU power cable, and fan cables.  It doesn’t look as clean as I would like, but it gets the job done.  If I get bored one weekend, I may redo the cabling.

Initial Cable Management

Initial Cable Management

I also noticed my case has a little cutout at the bottom right corner where the PSU is located on the other side.  I have not figured out exactly what that is for.  Perhaps it is an alternate location for a SSD.

At this point, I had everything in my case, hooked up, but I had not closed it.  The non-window panel required a little effort with those cables sticking out, but I got it in fine.  The window panel had problems though!  I did not realize how tall my video card would be.  My top window fan was above the video card, but my bottom fan kept hitting against the video card’s power cables.  The power cables are very stiff and there’s very little clearance.  If I put in a little more effort, I may have been able to find a solution that kept both side fans, but instead, I went with an easy solution.  I removed the bottom window fan, and replaced the stock fan used for rear exhaust with the former window LED fan.  Thinking back on my solution, I may have had to remove the bottom side window fan either way when I go SLI, so it was probably the best solution for future upgrading.

The computer build was finally over!  Unfortunately, it was 11 PM Tuesday night during the work week, so I decided to wait to turn it on.

Day 3 – It is alive!

Wednesday at work was rough, knowing I had a computer ready to turn on!  When I got off work, I immediately jumped into getting the computer cables in the back connected and finally turning it on for the first time!  Seeing the below BIOS splash screen was a relief!  The computer POST‘d fine.

First Boot Up!

First Boot Up! – “There has been an awakening, have you felt it?”

I went into BIOS immediately to check the settings.  I noticed the memory was running at 2133 MHz, so I enabled the XMP profile, which is a pre-built profile to overclock memory up to its designated rating, which in my case is 3000 MHz.  As I mentioned before, I noticed the HD LED didn’t turn on and that the SSD wasn’t on SATA Port 1, but I wanted to boot into Windows before fixing those issues.  When I rebooted with the new memory settings, I kept getting an error and had to revert to the old settings.  I was a little disappointed, but I decided to go ahead with the boot to Windows.

I wanted to use my old drives as is instead of doing a fresh install of Windows.  My SSD had my Windows 10 OS on it while my HDD just had my documents on it.  I didn’t anticipate the pain that would cause.  Windows kept giving me a memory management error.

Windows 10 Error

Windows 10 Error

When I read “memory,” I thought my RAM is bad.  However, MSI UEFI-BIOS detected both Corsair modules (just running at slower speeds).  After some researching online, I figured out that Windows didn’t have the drivers for my new system, so it was thinking it was the old one instead.  The hardware changes were so drastic that it couldn’t boot up.  I decided to pop back my storage drives into my old computer, so I could create a Windows 10 flash drive.  The Windows 10 repair utility would do the trick I hoped.  After creating the Windows 10 flash drive, I booted into it with my new computer (popped the drives back in too), and ran the repair utility a few times.  It would run and sometimes do a restart on its own.  I wasn’t sure it was working, but I finally did get into Windows!

Windows logged into my account fine, but I noticed it was not activated anymore.  It turns out that if you make significant changes to your free upgrade Windows 10 system, it will not recognize the machine.  The free upgrades don’t get product keys, so I couldn’t simply enter in the key.  I talked to Windows tech support that night, but I was informed that I would need to wait in the morning to get the activation center to take care of my problem.  In the mean time, I went ahead and installed all of the drivers and software for my new components.  MSI has a lot of software that comes with their motherboards.  One cool option for gamers is one free year of Xsplit Gamecaster premium subscription.  Corsair Link software allowed me to control my CPU cooler directly and change the LED lighting on it too.

Despite the Windows problems, I was pretty happy that the system booted up the first time!

Day 4 – Activating Windows, Minor Fixes, and Gaming!

Having got Windows finally working on Wednesday, Thursday was dedicated to the remaining issues.  I called Windows in the morning, and I got them to activate my Windows manually after verifying my Windows 7 key!  Very quick and easy too.  I was told that I would need to call them again if I wanted to do a fresh install.

My memory was still running at lower speeds.  I tried a manual overclock in BIOS, but it would not work at 3000 MHz.  Bumping it down to 2800 MHz did work though.  I was still not satisfied, so later I found out that outdated BIOS is usually the main issue with XMP profiles not working.  I flashed my BIOS with the latest version (1.4 versus 1.0) using M-Flash and XMP finally worked!  The XMP profile also did a slight overclock on my CPU from 4.0 GHz to 4.2 GHz.  Here’s the CPU-Z snapshot as proof!

3000 MHz Memory!

3000 MHz Memory!

In addition to these changes, I fixed the jumpers for the HD LED and Reset Switch (haven’t used that one yet).  I eliminated the vibration problem with my storage drive cables.  I ran SWTOR for the first time on the machine, and everything was pretty!  I feel my monitor is holding me back with 1600×900 resolution though.  I’m usually at very high FPS (80 to 100 on max settings) with less than 50% CPU load.

The final post in this series will focus on benchmarking and overclocking (CPU and video card).  I will end this blog post with pictures of my final build.  The red LEDs really make it stand out!  I’m looking for names for my PC.  I thought Kylo Ren would be appropriate with Episode VII coming out this year.

The Dark Side

The Dark Side

Final PC 1

And the Light

Final PC 3Final PC 4Final PC 5Final PC 6Final PC 7Final PC 8Final PC 9Final PC 10

"Your powers are weak old man" - Old versus New

“Your powers are weak old man” – Old versus New

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Part 1 – Fully Operational Gaming Station Series – Components

Over the course of 2 months, I have been working on a new PC build.  While my 5 year old HP PC was working fine for SWTOR, it was starting to struggle with newer games such as Dragon Age Inquisition.  I expected it would have trouble with Star Wars: Battlefront as well.  Thus, I began my journey for my first custom built PC. I will split this journey by starting with the components.

All of the shiny parts!

All of the shiny parts!

CPU

I am a very frugal and deliberate person, so I was going to extensively research each new component before making my purchases.  Researching began in July.  The first decision to make was regarding the chipset and CPU.  My old machine was running AMD, but I decided to go with Intel since its new Skylake chips were coming out very soon in August and were priced at roughly the same as the previous generation of chips.  It didn’t make any sense to be running on an older generation CPU that cost the same as the next gen.  However, the new unlocked (overclocking is permitted, denoted by the K) CPUs, i7 6700K and i5 6600K, were on a new chipset architecture that required new z170 motherboards and DDR4 RAM.  Comparing to Intel’s Haswell i7 4790K / i5 4690K, they require z87/97 motherboards and DDR3 RAM, which are cheaper.  The older motherboards would be running the older chipset, may have less features, and support the lower speed DDR3 RAM only.  I decided to go with the new Skylake chips.

New Skylake CPUs

New Skylake CPUs (Picture from Anandtech)

The next decision to make regarding the Skylake CPUs was i7 or i5.  Core i7 6700K is a quad core processor with 4.0 GHz base frequency and 4.2 GHz turbo frequency (Turbo is like an easy OC speed to reach).  Hyperthreading is enabled so the PC will see 8 cores instead of just 4.  The i5 6600K is a quad core processor with 3.5 GHz base frequency and 3.9 GHz turbo frequency with no hyperthreading.  Please refer to the Anandtech article for more extensive details of the differences.  Pricing for i7 is approximately $360 while i5 is at $240.  Both chips are analogous to the previous generation equivalents, so I researched which one would be good for gaming.  Majority of the tech sites state that i5 is all you need for gaming.  If you plan on doing any CPU intensive tasks such as video editing, streaming, or multi-tasking, the i7 will be better for you.  I wanted a CPU that will allow me to do whatever I want easily, so I decided to go with the i7 6700K despite the price difference.

Buying the i7 6700K proved to be rather difficult.  The i5 6600K was in stock at major retailers (Amazon, Newegg, Tigerdirect, etc.) at the beginning of August, but the i7 6700Ks could not be found in the US market, only overseas!  I was not too worried since I was knocking out the rest of the components during August, but when I still had trouble finding the chips in September, I decided to start contacting retailers and Intel directly.  Most retailers said they do get a few in-stock but they sell out quickly (always missed them while at work).  Intel told me that the i7s will be easy to find at the end of September.  I even asked Intel employees at PAX Prime about it, and they told me my best shot was to wait or try to win one (such a tease) at their booth (which didn’t happen of course).  Both answers I didn’t like!  Since I knew there were small quantities being sold, I placed an in-stock alert at NowInStock.com.  On 9/8/2015, I was finally able to purchase the CPU from Newegg!  Newegg only offered the purchase as a combo with a motherboard, so I grabbed two items with one order.

Intel Core i7 6700K

Intel Core i7 6700K

Motherboard

Since I made the big CPU decision already, only z170 motherboards would be compatible with my CPU.  These motherboards have the latest chipset and DDR4 RAM capability as the big differences compared to older motherboards.  The main motherboard manufacturers are MSI, Gigabyte, ASUS, and ASRock.  I eliminated ASRock since I was not too familiar with their products or knew anyone that had used them.

With the motherboards, I found it much easier to prioritize features and make a listing on a spreadsheet so I can see in one spot all of the relevant information.  Main features I was looking for were:  2-way SLI (need 2x PCI-E slots for video cards), USB 3.1 ports (Type A, conventional, and Type C, new connector type), USB 3.0 header for my case, USB 2.0 header for my cooler’s link software, at least 5 fan headers (3x chassis + 2x CPU), and at least 1 M2 (low profile SSD) slot.  I managed to narrow down the options to 10 boards.  From there, I started to look at both price and combos available at Newegg with the i7 6700K.  I finally got down to 4 choices, ASUS Maximus VIII Ranger ($240), Gigabyte Gaming 7 ($220), MSI Gaming M5 ($180), and MSI Gaming M7 ($230).  All met my needs, although I felt ASUS and Gigabyte were too expensive for software features that I would not used that much.  The MSI M7 did not have much over the M5 besides a better I/O shield, software, and other cosmetic features.  I talked to all of the manufacturers at PAX Prime and tried to win a free motherboard at MSI and Gigabyte booths, but no luck!  When the i7 6700K was in stock, I jumped on the MSI z170 Gaming M5 motherboard + i7 6700K Newegg combo priced at $525 with shipping.

When the package arrived with the motherboard and CPU, the shipping box was badly damaged.  I was a little worried about the state of the components.  I tweeted to Newegg and they refunded me my $5 shipping cost.  Also, there was an additional $20 off the motherboard at the time of the combo purchase.  I wrote them to mention that the code was not applied at checkout.  Instead of refunding me $20, Newegg gave me a $50 gift card!  I put that card to use with my RAM purchase later!  I saved an extra $55 thanks to Newegg customer service, so my effective cost was $470.

MSI z170 Gaming M5 Motherboard

MSI z170 Gaming M5 Motherboard

Memory

Going with Skylake also limited my memory options to DDR4.  Corsair, GSKILL, Crucial, and Kingston are the main memory manufacturers out there.  When choosing memory, you want to look at size and speed.  Z170 motherboards only support dual channel memory, so buying a kit of 4 modules is not necessary.  After watching various videos regarding PCs the past few weeks (Linus Tech Tips is amazing), you don’t really need more than 8 GB for gaming at this time.  If you plan on multi-tasking, more is better, but going overboard just doesn’t make sense.  In order to take advantage of dual channel and have some extra memory for other tasks, I decided that 16 GB in 2x 8 GB modules would be sufficient.  If for some reason that isn’t enough, I can always upgrade later.

DDR4 memory is more expensive in general but the prices have been trending down with the introduction of Skylake making DDR4 more mainstream.  As a side note, during my journey to build this PC, I utilized the Build a PC sales subreddit and PC Part Picker extensively.  The subreddit is great for catching amazing deals.  PC Part Picker is very useful in narrowing down component options and creating price alerts.  Back to memory, PC Part Picker helped give me a listing of memory kits available.  Next up was deciding on the speed.  Legit Reviews had an interesting article on this exact topic.  They tested various memory speed modules and compared the cost per performance using GSKILL modules.  They found the sweet spot to be 2666 MHz.  Now, I was looking for 2x module 16 GB kits at 2666 MHz or higher.  In terms of cost, Kingston was eliminated, and I couldn’t find Crucial kits that met my requirements.  I was down to Corsair and GSKILL.  The Corsair 3000 MHz modules were discounted by 10% at Newegg while the GSKILL were not.  The 2666 MHz and 2800 MHz modules were not discounted, which I thought odd.  At the time, my last component to buy was the memory, and with my motherboard and CPU on the way, I didn’t want to wait for a better deal.  I pulled the trigger on the Corsair memory despite the negative reviews.  Turns out, the reviews may not be valid and were user error or motherboard issues.  I was able to apply my $50 gift card to this purchase too.  The memory cost me $135 before gift card.  It looks great and matches well with my motherboard.

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB 3000 MHz

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB 3000 MHz

Video Card

I am somewhat going out of order with how I purchased my items.  My video card was purchased before the rest of the items here.  It is not dependent on the chipset architecture, so I was able to purchase it when it came on sale for a good price.  With any video card, you usually decide between AMD or NVIDIA first.  I previously ran with an ATI (now AMD) Sapphire Radeon HD 5770.  No real problems with the card, so I had nothing against AMD.  I talked to a few people within my guild, who almost exclusively had NVIDIA.  I also asked around on twitter (thanks to @2ndsith for answering my various questions / providing feedback!).  I was not planning on buying a very expensive card, like a 980.  Lot of my research brought me back to the 970, a solid card, not too expensive, but it had a VRAM issue.  The VRAM issue was explained fairly well by JayzTwoCents and NCIX Tech Tips (Linus).  Without going into details, instead of 4 GB, you will get 3.5 GB at normal speeds and 0.5 GB at lower speeds.  Most games do not use more than 3.5 GB of VRAM, so it is not really a big issue.  When the Build a PC sales subreddit notified me of the EVGA GTX 970 FTW+ (their top end card according to this chart) was at $320 on Newegg, I jumped on it.  A $20 mail-in-rebate was included with that price, so there was a little hassle doing that, but overall, I thought the price was great.  I verified that this price was a new low for it too!  I looked at other video card manufactuers (ASUS and MSI), but I decided to go ahead with EVGA.  Good customer service and high quality products.

With the card, I also got Metal Gear Solid V:  The Phantom Pain game code for free.  I am not really into Metal Gear and thought I could flip the code for some money.  I went to the Game Sale subreddit and was able to sell the code for $35 using Paypal.  I was a little apprehensive about it, but the buyer immediately sent the money over after I showed proof of the purchase.  Then, I emailed the code to him directly, and he had no issues redeeming.

I am tentatively planning on getting another GTX 970 for SLI in the future.  There’s really no rush since this card will knock out SWTOR, Dragon Age Inquisition, or anything else I throw at it for the time being.

EVGA GTX 970 FTW+

EVGA GTX 970 FTW+

Power Supply

Going back in time again, before grabbing my video card, I purchased my power supply.  The only real requirements for my power supply were modular (cables are separately attached, much cleaner and easier to work with), at least 750W for future SLI, and decent warranty.  My guildmate Boernich helped guide me when it came to what I needed for SLI as well.  I used JonnyGURU.com for really solid power supply reviews.  They know what types of electrical components are good quality, do a wide range of tests on PSUs, and give a nice concise summary.  Also, Tom’s Hardware forums have an amazing PSU Tier List that gives you a general sense of which brands are reliable.  EVGA and Corsair were some of the best brands out there.  When Newegg had an EVGA PSU sale, I decided I would buy one of them.  Corsair’s tended to be priced higher, although, now their prices are much more competitive.  In order to have a little more headroom in terms of future overclocking, I decided to go with an 850W PSU.  EVGA has multiple power supply brand series and at different 80+ ratings / efficiency.  My goal was an 850W PSU with Gold or Platinum ratings.  I went with the EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W PSU from Newegg.  It has an amazing 10 year warranty too!

Pricing was a little strange, had to jump through a lot of hoops on this one.  Base price at purchase was $180.  With promo code and shipping, it would cost me $150 before the $20 mail-in-rebate.  The item’s base price dropped $20 a few days after I purchased it.  Newegg refunded me the difference.  I also told them that the rebate increased to $30 from $20.  They issued a $10 gift card for that difference.  In the end, including refund, gift card, and rebate, the PSU cost me $100!

A few other notes regarding this PSU. JonnyGuru now has the review up for it! 9.7 out of 10, with marks off for value (for me, doesn’t apply!).  This PSU came with a 24 pin tester, so I was able to test the PSU immediately.   This was a nice touch, especially since the PSU arrived mid August, and I wasn’t even close to gathering up the remaining components.  It has no monitoring software like Corsair’s HX 850i but not a deal breaker for me.  The EVGA PSU has an ECO mode which reduces fan use when under low load.

EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W PSU

EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W PSU

Case

Roughly around the same time I grabbed my PSU, I ordered my case off Amazon.  When looking for a case, I wanted a black mid tower (more room for components and wiring), side window (looks cool), lots of cooling options (fan + radiator mounts), USB 3.0 in the front, and finally a case that is easy for building.  There are so many options out there for cases, but I stuck with researching the more popular ones: Corsair, NZXT, and Cooler Master.  I had price alerts set for several cases from all of these brands.  Eventually, one popped up on Build a PC sales subreddit that was at an astounding price, the Corsair C70 Vengeance case.  The base price for Amazon was usually hovering around $140.  The discounted price was $90!  That was the lowest price for that case according to PC Parts Picker.  It has amazing reviews, meets all of my requirements, really cool carrying handles, all metal front side, side panel clasps (no need for screws), dust filters on front and bottom, and easy cable management brackets on the back for routing.  On top of that, I had Amazon gift cards that I needed to burn, so this case was basically free in the end, but $90 for that case is a steal in my opinion.  The down sides cosmetically were the fan mounts on the side panel window.

Corsair C70 Vengeance Case

Corsair C70 Vengeance Case – Cool Power button and Reset button (with flip cover)

Side Panel Window - 2 Fan Mounts

Side Panel Window – 2 Fan Mounts

CPU Cooler

The CPU cooler came later in my purchase order.  With the CPU cooler, I had to choose between a standard fan + heatsink or all-in-one liquid cooler.  My case supports a radiator mount at the top so I had no limitations from the case.  I have not touched liquid cooling before, so my curiosity along with the proven performance of liquid coolers made me go with a liquid CPU cooler.  There are certain fan + heatsink coolers out there that can keep up with liquid coolers (and are much cheaper) but you would normally need to replace the stock fans and look sort of ugly.  Corsair is the most popular brand for all-in-on coolers, and I decided to stick with them again.  I wanted to buy a 240mm cooler for the proven performance over the single 120mm coolers.  The older H100i or the newer H100i GTX were my two options.  The performance was roughly the same, so I went ahead with the older and cheaper model.  I grabbed the Corsair H100i for $90 off Amazon.  Not heavily discounted but it is about $15 to $20 lower than standard pricing.  I was able to use my Amazon gift card balance for this item too.  These models are harder to find, and I believe the discounts I noted at the time were meant to sell off the remaining stock and focus on the new model.  The cooler comes with 2x SP120 mm fans.  No need to replace them.  Through a USB 2.0 header, you can get real-time data from the cooler and control it via the Corsair Link software (and change the LED lighting!).

Corsair H100i CPU Cooler

Corsair H100i CPU Cooler – Fans Installed

Misc Components

For the chassis fans, I wanted to add a little flavor to this build and get LED fans.  The 3x stock case fans are fairly normal, and I was willing to replace them.  The Corsair LED fans were a little expensive at 2x fans for $20, but they were reliable according to reviews and had a great lighting pattern so I went ahead with them.  I wasn’t really sure on what colors to go with.  My motherboard was already purchased, which has a red and black theme to it.  I decided to put up a poll on my twitter account!  Red was the winner, so I bought two twin packs of Corsair AF120 (AF = good for areas without obstructions) and SP120 (good for areas with obstructions) from Newegg.  Bought both for $21, but AF120 had a price drop on Amazon of $3 and with Newegg’s Iron Egg Guarantee (Price guarantee), I got a gift card for the difference.  Minor price change, but I noticed it so I went ahead and got the price difference back, although it is in gift card form.

Since I was planning on having a total of 5 chassis fans (the above mentioned plus one of the stock ones for the back), I had to buy splitters because my motherboard only has 3x chassis fan connections.  Turns out I didn’t need one of them due to an unexpected complication that I will talk about in the next post in this series.  Either way, I bought Silverstone 4 pin fan splitters for $4 each.  My chassis fans were only 3 pins, so I could have gone with a cheaper option, but the rest were ugly (no black sleeves)!  3 pin fans are controlled using voltage while 4 pin fans (PWM fans) are controlled using power modulation (using signal bursts to control speed).  PWM fans are in general more expensive and most motherboards can easily “tune” 3 pin fans and generate a curve for RPM vs temperature.

Corsair SP120 Fans at front of C70 Case

Corsair SP120 Fans at front of C70 Case

For optical drive, I went with the highly reviewed ASUS 24X DVD Burner 24B1ST from Newegg for $15.  These are so cheap, and can be rather useful if you need to burn a disc or to load software / drivers.

For my SSD and hard drive, I decided to reuse my old computer’s drives, a Samsung 850 EVO, 256 GB SDD, and a Seagate 750 GB hard drive (came with HP computer).  I bought my SSD a few months ago for $100 off Amazon.  SSD prices have started to drop a lot this year, and now you can get this SSD for $80 if you grab a good deal.  I am hoping to buy a 500 GB Samung 850 EVO SSD for $150 or below eventually, but for now, no immediate need.  Another good reason for reusing my old drives is no need to reinstall Windows and all other programs.  Turns out this drive swap idea wasn’t as smooth as I envisioned, but I will go into detail in my next blog post.

For my peripherals, I did not buy any new ones for this build.  I am using a Logitech G600 MMO gaming mouse (only 2 months old, but works well, grabbed it for $35).  The keyboard is a standard HP one that came with my old computer.  I am thinking of grabbing a Corsair Vengeance K70 keyboard.  My headset is rather new as well, Sentey Symph, and cost $30 on Amazon.

For my monitor, I will need to upgrade it, but I am willing to wait for a good deal.  My monitor is a standard 20″ HP 2010i, with max resolution of 1600×900 at 60 Hz, that came with my old computer.  I am thinking of grabbing a 2560 x 1440 (2K) monitor, perhaps with G-SYNC capability.  G-SYNC monitors are so expensive still.  I am rather receptive to monitor suggestions!

Summary

Here’s a comprehensive breakdown of what I bought for the new computer, when I bought it, and how much it cost (including rebates, refunds, etc.).  I will include the Amazon purchases, although, I was able to use gift cards to get those for “free”.

New PC Build:

  • CPU & Motherboard Combo:  Intel Core i7 6700K + MSI z170 Gaming M5 Motherboard
    • Purchased:  9/8/2015
    • Cost:  $470 (includes refund and gift card)
  • Memory:  Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB 3000 MHz
    • Purchased:  9/12/2015
    • Cost:  $135
  • Video Card:  EVGA GTX 970 FTW+
    • Purchased:  8/18/2015
    • Cost:  $285 (with rebate and game code sale)
  • Power Supply:  EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W
    • Purchased:  8/12/2015
    • Cost:  $100 (with rebate and price refunds)
  • Case:  Corsair C70 Vengeance
    • Purchased:  8/13/2015
    • Cost:  $90 (used Amazon gift card)
  • CPU Cooler:  Corsair H100i
    • Purchased:  9/5/2015
    • Cost:  $90 (used Amazon gift card)
  • Fans:  2x Corsair AF120 Red LED + 2x Corsair SP120 Red LED fans
    • Purchased:  9/12/2015
    • Cost:  $39 (with price match refund)
  • Fan Splitters:  2x Silverstone 4 pin fan splitters
    • Purchased:  9/12/2015
    • Cost:  $8
  • Optical Drive:  ASUS 24X DVD burner
    • Purchased:  9/8/2015
    • Cost:  $15

Total:  $1232

This first build article turned out to be quite long!  I was thinking my build story would all fit into one post, but dividing it up seems to make the most sense.  Next up will be the build itself and the minor troubles I ran into along the way.